Return to Phnom Penh– a bittersweet journey.
The glass doors slide open in the Phnom Penh airport and a face stands out in the crowd. SomOn’s. Eight years ago—almost to the day—the same man greeted us with […]
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48 hours on Rabbit Island
Something special happens every day around 4pm on Rabbit Island: the daytrippers go home. Around that hour, clusters of brightly painted wooden boats pull away from the beach filled with […]
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‘Valuable guest’ back in the land of confusion
“Dear valuable guest,” began the tent card welcoming us to our hotel in room in Bangkok, a delightfully inelegant twist to the customary “Dear valued guest” that reflects the quaint honesty, faulty […]
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A warm return to Phnom Penh that feels like home
How odd that Phnom Penh should feel so much like home. And yet, how perfect. This place of bizarre contrasts both beautiful and horrible, with its smiling, struggling people and […]
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The end of the road in Cambodia
This weekend, we stayed in a hotel in Phnom Penh. We walked along the riverside with backpacks strapped to our backs and took photos of the Royal Palace. Tuktuk drivers […]
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What remains when we leave
Now that it is imminently apparent that we are leaving Cambodia – perhaps for good, perhaps not – I find myself ruminating on the last 3.5 years. Living in a […]
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