Tag Archives: Varanasi

Leaving Varanasi – crowds, snores and sleep in a torpedo tube

Braving the crowds at Varanasi’s train station makes the annual bridal event at Filene’s Basement seem like teatime at the Ritz. Like 5,000 teenage girls scampering for Justin Bieber tickets, the Varanasi train station is a troubling specter of confusion, competition and madness. Cars, tuktuks, cows and thousands of people awaited us as we climbed from our tuktuk in a […]

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Through the eyes of Pramod

I will never understand Varanasi, this ancient city of spirituality, holiness and all things that are human. But I feel as though I’ve been given a glimpse of what this city is all about, through the eyes of a small, gregarious and incredibly grounded man named Pramod. The friend of a friend, Pramod opened his heart, city and home to […]

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Darkness and Light — A Night in Varanasi

How do you find words to describe a city that is two thousand years old? Where spirituality mingles with revulsion. Where the engorged Ganges river floods homes of gentle sweet people trying to survive. Where streets are filthy with garbage, enormous cows stand motionless for hours and tuktuks spewing exhaust fumes pollute the air. And where a dark-skinned low caste […]

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